Hey everyone, this is the children's corner pattern Mary De – the nonsmocked version.
It is super, duper easy. Wonderful for a beginner and lends may different embellishment opportunities.
If you didn't know, Mary De was recently revised this past October 2016 and I will
link where I got mine from below.
So to begin, you'll cut out two bodice front pieces on the fold. One of these will be used
as the lining. Then cut out four bodice back pieces, and two of these will be used as the
lining. Then cut out the skirt. Now, if your fabric rips, you're definitely going to
want to rip it. So you can see, I measure the length given by the pattern pieces and
then cut a slit where that measurement is on my fabric so I can rip it. Then I cut off
the selvage edge before measuring the width and using the same rotary/straight edge setup
to cut that. I repeat the same concept to cut out the entire skirt. You'll have one
big piece for the skirt front and two smaller pieces for the skirt backs. Also, if you are
working with some kind of strip or design that needs matching up, be cautious of that
as you cut out your skirts so the design will come together when you sew your side seams.
In my case, I'm using dotted swiss and I want the dots to line up. I'll get into
more on that later.
So you'll gather your skirt top for the skirt front as well as backs. I use two rows
of gather stitches – one on either side of where the permentate stitches will go later.
You can set those pieces aside.
This step is optional, but if you have lightweight fabric, then you may want to interface one
of the pieces. I'm using this (gorgeous) lightweight dotted swiss, so I interfaced
the front bodice piece as well as the back pieces. I didn't worry about interfacing
the lining pieces. I'm using baby interfacing and I will link that down below. Farmhouse
Fabrics also carries German interfacing, and while it is very nice, it's more expensive
and I like the baby interfacing stuff just fine. Anywho…
If you want to put some pipping in, do that now before attaching the skirt to the bodice.
It's an optional step…. obviously.
Regardless of pipping, you'll match up the gathered skirt front piece to the bodice front,
with right sides together. Take that to your machine and stitch it in place. I used ½"
seam allowances. Then you can take out your gather threads and iron that down. If you
have something with strips or whatnot, you may want to look over your seam to make sure
the design is lined up nicely. This would be the opportunity to fix any deviations.
Before you can put the skirt back to the bodice back, you'll have to finish one edge of
the skirt first. You'll take the edge that will be overlapping in the back of the dress
and turn it over about ¼" and then stitch along. Then turn it again about 1" and iron
that in place.
Now repeat the same process of attaching the bodice and skirt back pieces. You know…
interfacing, gathering, stitching… you get the drill. The only difference is you're
going to have about half an inch of the bodice back overhanging the skirt – and this is
overlapping the finished edge of the skirt. I hope all of that is making sense. Basically,
the skirt edge is already finished and you're leaving the overlap of the bodice back so
you can have some seam allowance to sew into and finish the bodice edge. If this is not
making sense now – just keep watching… I promise I'll bring you back.
Hahaa and Audrey is helping… hey, it's how we get stuff done on those days where
she simply wants to be held, and there is no complaining from me – I get to do it.
So once you pull that gathered thread out and iron the seam up, then you can attach
the front pieces to the back pieces at the shoulder seams. I just used regular seams,
½" seam allowance. And join your lining pieces at the shoulder seams, too.
Then fold the bottom edge of your lining up about ½" and iron that in place. This is
going to provide a way to enclose the skirt seam later on.
Now pin the lining to the bodice with right sides together. I started to pin at the shoulder
seams. So you're going to sew from one under arm to the other – but not down the side
of the dress. Then you'll sew from one back of the bodice edge to the other edge. This
is that ½" overlap that I was talking about earlier. You'll want to sew as collinear
to the finished skirt edge as possible so the two sections are flush. And you can put
your needle down to turn that corner when you sew up to it. Once you sew around the
neckline, you'll come to the other back edge and, again, sew as collinear as you can
with the finished edge of the skirt.
So at this point you'll have the sides open, and the backs together. You can clip the corner
at the back sections and clip around the curves of the armholes and neckline.
Then you'll pull the back sections through – this will turn them right sides out and
finish the armhole area as well as the neckline in one fell swoope.
Once both sides are turned, take a good ironing to the bodice area. It will look like a hot
mess until you iron everything really well. And you can use your scissors to push the
corners out so they form a pretty point.
So now you're going to sew the side seams together. You'll pull the lining away from
the bodice area, keeping the folded edge entact on the lining. You can see here – both of
the sides are together with the fold of the lining sections still folded over. Then I
took this to my machine and sewed it together using French seams. And I have a detailed
video on how to do French seams that I'll link below.
Once you iron that flat, you can move onto the hem of the dress. I ironed about ½"
up all the way around the dress. Instead of measuring, I just used the dots to guide me.
Then I folded and pinned 3" up all the way around. Since this is really wonderful fabric,
I sewed the hemline in place by hand.
Now I did another version of Mary De that is more casual fabric and I sewed that by
machine – all these finishes are up to you. Like I say, it's sewing, you do you.
So when I got done with my dress, I thought – darn, should've put in some light pink
pipping. I didn't want to undo the dress, so I crotched some lace edging instead. Kinda
a different look and I have a video on how I did that.
I put fake snap/buttons (hey, that's my favorite way to close garments at this age),
and then the dress was complete after I whipped stitch the lining down.
So here is 6 month Audrey in the 6 month sizing of Mary De. I'll add her measurements after
nap time is over… and I did put a pinacoat underneath for a little "emf".
If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below and I'll do my best
to answer them. As always, I appreciate y'all for watching and hope to catch y'all next
time.
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