Waching daily Dec 1 2018

Hello and welcome to my channel

I've always been asked by people how I protect my dioramas and model.

That's why I want to show you today which showcases I use and which company they are.

First I would like to thank the company, sora.de

That they put this showcase at my disposal.

I have been a customer of the company since 2014 and have already ordered several showcases there.

I am very satisfied with the product, so I just want to introduce it to you.

These are special showcases made of acrylic glass.

These are made especially for you, to the desired size.

You can protect all sorts of things from dust and damage in this showcase.

I'll show you the website of the company Sora.de

Also the configurator and what you can choose anything there.

Then I'll show you how to assemble this showcase.

This is now the website of the company sora.de

Here you can see at a glance what is offered.

There are the custom-made acrylic showcases that particularly interest me

Here we have a staircase and even several showcases in one.

Here is a photo gallery of the customers. We can look in there together.

There you can see for what the customers use the showcases

It's really amazing what you can order for showcases.

Here you can see the model of a big sailing ship

Or a submarine.

The showcases are made in every size for you.

That's why we go here again on HOME

Now I click the button, individual showcases

Click here for the products

That's the configurator now.

First, you must now know how big your showcase should be.

Then you have all the options to configure your showcase.

First, you can choose if you need a floor for the showcase.

Yes or No, or should the floor be flush with the showcase.

The showcase I showed you has a flush floor.

I have clicked flush, for my showcase.

Now you can choose different back walls.

Should the rear wall be transparent?

Or should she be mirrored or black?

I would like to visit the showcases at some point, a model exhibition. That's why I opted for transparent back walls

Here at the top, at the photo of the motorcycle you see, for example, a mirrored back wall.

Here, the width is now entered in centimeters.

Now enter the width in centimeters, as well as the height and depth of the showcase.

I needed an interior width of 40 cm for my current diorama.

Here I enter now 40cm

A width of 27 cm

And a height of 23 cm.

Now that you have selected and entered everything. Just click on calculate.

Then the company SORA calls you the price for your individual showcase. Just right for your project.

Then everything comes into the cart and you can order.

The company Sora is very fast when producing and shipping the goods.

Here now a delivery time of 5 days is calculated.

I placed my order bevor a weekend.

I would guess the delivery would otherwise only last 3 business days.

But the delivery time is always different. It always depends on how much orders the company currently has.

As I said, sora.de. There you can take a look at what the company has to offer.

The assortment of different showcases is really big.

I would say that we are now assembling the showcase.

This is what the display case looks like when you take it out of the box.

All acrylic sheets are stacked and secured with adhesive tape

First, we have a small screwdriver here.

This Phillips screwdriver is included.

This is the assembly instructions, with an overview of all parts and the size of the plates.

Here is your name. I have blurred my own.

Here are the matching screws

These are in two small different bags.

One bag is resealable, the other one has to be torn open.

If we turn now, we have here a page with the construction manual in English.

You can pause the video now, if you speak English and want to read the instructions.

It's an overview of all parts

And on the back is the whole again in German.

These are all components now

Each acrylic plate is protected with foils on the top and bottom

Thus, the component can not be scratched.

Before assembling, we have to remove all protective films. But you'll see that soon.

Now I remove all the tape and then I show you all the parts.

The parts are all very well protected. So you do not have to worry about something damaged or loose.

These are now the two sides of the showcase, right and left.

This is now the front or back wall, depending on where it is installed.

The side without holes, always points down to the ground.

Here again the same part, either for front or back.

This is now the lid of the showcase, this is easy to recognize by the whole recesses.

Here are the two bottom plates, each with two holes.

This plate is at the same time the inside size of the showcase and on it is the dioram.

On the slightly larger other plate, then sits the showcase. And results in a flush floor.

But you will see that as well during assembly.

I always start by assembling the floor. All you need is these two parts.

At the bottom plate it is important.

These two holes are conical.

The larger opening of the borehole comes down.

And this part is simply screwed on.

I'll remove the protective film now, then you can see how clear the plates are.

To assemble the floor we need this bag, with the two screws.

The screw consists of two parts, one for top and one for bottom.

Now you can see if both slides are removed, how nice and clear the plate is.

There is a green and a clear foil

Here I also remove the slides and then we build the floor together.

That's the bigger of the two plates now.

Here are the screws with the flat head and the Phillips

You may still have a regular flat-head screwdriver on it.

The screws come in here.

These are the counterpart to the other screws that come from above.

So the screw is tight.

Above are the slotted screws

And below are the Phillips screws

Thus, both plates are connected together.

Of course, I still remove all my fingerprints with a microfiber cloth.

Now we come to the second phase of construction.

This one is a bit more complex and looks complicated than it really is.

But I have some practice in it because I have already built several showcases.

First, the front panel is placed on a flat surface.

I put the two side parts away first.

The lid aside for now.

And here is the front panel.

First all foils are removed, then you lay down the plate and start building.

I now put all the pieces together to show you.

As a next step, the side panels are inserted.

You always have to make sure that the smooth side shows no holes down.

The side panels are simply put in here.

The other side too

These were both sides and at the end comes the cover plate.

This is the plate with all the cutouts

This is pushed in here.

This almost gives you a closed box. I zoom a litle bit out.

As I said that is the lid and is attached here.

Finally, the last side part comes on top.

Then it looks almost like an aquarium, where one side is open.

I'm going to put it all together and screw it up.

If you put these four plates together, the screwing starts.

For this we always need a screw and a matching screw nut.

For screwing the small Phillips screwdriver supplied by Sora is enough.

I now insert the back wall, please always pay attention. The smooth side always points down.

All parts would now fit nicely together.

When all parts are well aligned, the back panel almost automatically falls into place.

Now I start screwing every single hole, that's 7 pieces on this side.

With seven screws and seven nuts bolts, I will now fasten this part.

A little tip, I hope you can see it well.

Each acrylic plate has always wells at the holes, on one side.

So that the screw head is really already deepened.

You have to pay attention to this, before you put all the pieces together.

The side of the showcase is now completely screwed.

Sora now recommends pulling the display case over the edge of the table.

And to attach the other screws from below.

But I just turn the whole showcase around, it's easier for me.

I tip the entire display case aside, hold everything tight and turn it over.

And now fix all seven screws here on the side.

This is now the completely screwed showcase, it is also pretty stable.

There are even four nuts and two screws left.

So if the carpet monster eats one, it's not so bad.

Now we take the floor.

Now, the showcase must fit great.

It slides almost alone in position and gives below the flush floor.

I will now remove all the fingerprints from the showcase and then the diorama will come in.

I recommend you to wear gloves when cleaning, so you do not make new fingerprints.

I take my microfiber cloth again and clean everything.

From inside and outside.

The showcase should shine so beautiful

It's a glossy surface, you can always see some fingerprints on it.

That's why I use the gloves and this cloth.

Now, so to speak, is the wedding.

Here is my "Welcome to France" diorama, which I would like to protect.

This is now in the middle of the base plate.

And if I have not measured myself, now the showcase would have to fit nicely over it.

Align the lid correctly so that the display case closes nicely.

And then the diorama is protected.

So now you can put the model or diorama anywhere without having to put it in a cupboard.

Now I can go with it to an exhibition without anyone touching the diorama.

The most important thing is, the model is protected from dust and remains in top condition.

You have to be sure of the inside dimensions, that everything fits in well.

That's it for today.

Thanks again to the company Sora, for this showcase.

See you again at the next video

See you soon Ben

For more infomation >> Acrylvitrinen nach Maß von sora.de Produktvorstellung / product review (English subtitles) - Duration: 16:41.

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Apartment Renovation Ep.1 / How to lay Laminate Flooring - Duration: 10:57.

I've spent the past few days doing some renovations in this small apartment.

For now I've installed the laminate flooring and I'm about to finish placing the doors.

This is the first video in a series of five or six

where I'll show you how to lay down the laminate flooring.

First of all, I've made a design with an online app to allocate the space

and see what the apartment will look like in the end.

This is the floor plan of the apartment, where we can see its distribution.

You can see the living room, the kitchen, the bathroom, and the two bedrooms.

By dragging this blue point we can move around the interior of the design with this 3D view.

We can also select a view of the inside at eye level.

These types of apps are very useful to visualize our projects,

and creating walls and furniture is quite easy.

Laying laminate flooring is a relatively simple task, especially if the floor is perfectly level and in good condition.

There are levelling compounds that can be used in extreme cases,

but that's not the case here.

First we must remove all the bits of cement or glue from the corners and the floor itself,

as well as cleaning the entire surface.

After cleaning, I'll place underlayment on the floor.

We needn't cover the entire floor at once.

In order to avoid breaking it, I'll keep adding strips as needed.

For best results, the underlayment should go 2 cm up the walls.

This kind of underlayment is good for keeping moisture away,

as well as making up for imperfections on the floor.

This is the flooring I'm going to install.

It's gray and has saw cuts imitating oak grain.

As you might know, this kind of flooring has an anchoring system to attach the boards to one another.

In order to get it as close to the wall as possible,

I'm going to cut the male anchors on all the sides that touch the wall with the laminate cutter,

leaving the female side oriented towards us so that we can continue placing the rest of the boards.

I place some 9mm wood blocks to act as spacers in order to avoid problems due to the expansion of the flooring.

In order to fasten the boards to one another,

we must raise and tilt the board we are going to insert,

and then bring it down while pushing towards the other board.

If all goes well, the anchoring system itself will join the two pieces together

until you can barely see where they're connected.

In order to measure the last piece, we only have to turn it and mark it,

leaving the same separation to the wall because of expansion.

As you can see, this kind of laminate cutter is quite easy to use,

and we'll avoid leaving too much dust at home.

It is advisable that the last board is no shorter than 20 centimetres,

you can cut the first board as much as necessary to avoid this problem.

In the next row, we can start with the remaining part of the piece we cut before.

It's important that the joints don't match.

The next boards are more complicated to place, because we have to attach two anchorages rather than one.

There are several methods, but what I usually do is anchor the longest side by tilting the boards a little like before.

Now I'll use this tapping block, which you can easily find in hardware stores.

It has a part made of rubber

with a rebate to avoid damaging the boards when pushing them

into the previous board.

By doing this, you may move the previous row,

which is why it's important to keep placing spacers between the flooring and the wall.

In order to place the last board of the next rows,

I'll use this steel pull bar I made. They're also easy to find in hardware stores.

We place the strips of underlayment required,

and following the same steps we can easily do most of the rest of the room

if there aren't many corners or doors in your room.

This underlayment has self-adhesive tape to join the parts together,

if yours doesn't have it, you can use masking tape instead, making sure the strips don't overlap.

Here's the first setback.

I have to measure the gap between the board and this chest-high wall,

minus the space for expansion.

In this case I'll use a jigsaw to cut as required.

As a rule of thumb,

the flooring has to be laid in the same direction as the main light source in the house,

usually the windows, but it's not a problem if you want it to face a different direction.

The same thing happens here.

After measuring, I place the board as before.

I'll leave the required space for a door bar between the flooring and the bathroom floor.

I've also left an 8mm gap between the flooring and the door frame,

which will be covered by the jamb and casing.

In my case, the front door has already been installed,

and at the bottom of it I left a gap for the flooring,

so this time I'll start laying the flooring the other way around,

because otherwise it would be impossible to slide the last board under the door.

It's not the best option, but it's not a problem if you have to lay a few floorboards like this.

I remove the sliding door protections and continue placing the floorboards.

Since this is a small apartment,

I'm going to try placing the floorboards in one piece

without door bars under the doors.

It goes a little over the recommended length,

but I've left a gap big enough because of expansion, so it should be okay.

I prefer the look of the flooring without the door bars.

It also makes cleaning the house easier!

In order to do that, I measure the required cuts,

leaving the same gap in all directions to account for expansion, including door frames.

In the bedrooms I have to do the same as before.

I've had to cut the first board with the measurements I got from the board that goes under the door.

Now all that's left is to install the plinth.

I've thought about bringing along my Portable Workshop, which I think will be quite useful to finish the renovation.

To cut the plinth I'll use a sliding miter saw and an tool-actuated vacuum.

It will switch itself on whenever I turn on the saw, making the job much easier.

First I cut the left over underlayment, at the same height as the flooring.

There are plinths with the same color as the flooring, but in this case I went with waterproof lacquered DM.

Now I'll start installing the plinth on one corner, making a miter joint.

We can trim the corner in the back a little so that it matches the wall better.

I cut the other end of the joint straight, but it can also be cut at an angle.

I apply some anchoring adhesive. It's a dense product that dries fast,

which locks the plinth onto the wall.

I also apply some adhesive on the plinth joints.

We could use steel nails in the uneven parts of the wall, if there are any.

Drive them into the plinth and cover the hole with white wax.

There are many ways to finish the plinth pieces that touch the casings.

This is what I do:

I cut the plinth part at a 45 degree angle,

then I grab another leftover piece of plinth and cut it at 45 degrees,

and then straight, with the same thickness as the plinth itself.

I use cyanoacrylate with accelerator to glue the pieces together.

In order to improve the bond, you can use a very thin file.

This way I can cover the head of the plinth with the same material.

Another method would be to paint it white.

There's another problem that can come up.

I need a very thin piece of laminate flooring to cover a gap.

I cut it in the portable workshop, and remove part of the anchoring system so that I can attach it from above,

and glue it to the previous piece with cyanoacrylate.

In the areas where the plinth doesn't go well on the wall because it's too uneven,

it's advisable not to force the plinth too much.

Before applying the last coat of paint on the walls,

we can fill these gaps with plaster and sand them,

so that we can paint over them later.

If the floor is uneven, you may have to trim the plinth a little,

and some joints are best glued before putting them on the wall, such as in this case.

Lastly, I'll place this L-shaped steel profile to finish the area by the stairs.

I drill and the concrete plate and screw in the L-shaped piece, pushing it down.

I haven't shown you how to place the plinth pieces that touch the casings

of the bedroom doors and the built-in wardrobes,

which I'll lay in the next video, where I'll also show you how to install the doors themselves.

See you soon!

For more infomation >> Apartment Renovation Ep.1 / How to lay Laminate Flooring - Duration: 10:57.

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Coral Reef Festive Salad - Duration: 4:08.

Hello! With you Priprava Club, my name is Anastasia

Today, I propose to cook a festive salad "Coral Reef"

Ingredients: • 250 g of crab sticks; • 2 tomatoes; • 2 red bell peppers; • 150 g of hard cheese; • 1 red onion; • 2 tablespoons of lemon juice; • 50 g of mayonnaise; • 50 g of sour cream or natural yogurt; • 2 cloves of garlic; • 1 tsp. ground paprika; • 1 tsp. dry mustard; • salt to taste.

Marinate the onion

Cut the onion into thin half-rings.

Put in deep container

Add lemon juice

And a spoonful of sugar

Mix thoroughly

Cut the crab sticks into thin slices diagonally

Cut the tomato into quarters, remove the stalks

Remove seeds

This is to ensure that tomatoes do not produce a lot of juice.

Slice tomatoes into thin strips.

Clear pepper from seed

Cut pepper into thin straws.

Set aside a few pieces of pepper. I will explain later

Grate the cheese on a coarse grater

I mixed mayonnaise with sour cream

Sour cream can be replaced with natural yogurt

Add paprika and mustard

Add salt

Stir

Mix tomatoes and peppers in a deep bowl.

Add crab sticks

Add the onions, after removing the liquid

Add grated cheese

Add grated garlic and dressing

Stir

With the help of such a mold, place the salad on a plate

Remember, I asked to put a few pieces of pepper?

We will use it for decoration

Cut the pepper in small cubes and sprinkle it over the salad

We will also decorate the salad with such openwork chips.

Now I will show you how to cook them.

Pour 5 tablespoons of water into a deep bowl.

Add a teaspoon of flour

Add 2.5 tablespoons of vegetable oil

Mix thoroughly

Heat the pan with a non-stick coating.

Pour mixture and reduce heat to medium.

Initially, the mixture will sizzle strongly

When the hissing stops, remove the chips from the heat and put them on a paper towel.

That's what happens

That's what I have you finally got

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Enjoy your meal!