Among all the nations and people I visited...
I never met a stranger breed than the Dutch.
Not just one people, but a tombola of cultures, clubs and groups.
With strange tribes and exotic communities.
Like the classical ethnologists before me, I will visit them...
measure them...
dissect and scrutinize them.
I'm going on safari in my own country, in search of the jungle within us.
You can call me the Pigeonhole Man.
Looking for the marines.
How do you recognise them?
Where do they live?
Are they approachable?
What are their modes of transport?
What do they like to read?
What can't they get enough of?
And what do they think about, far away from home?
A normal day under the grey Dutch sky.
On the Dutch coast.
Peaceful waters.
Once fought for, and hard-won.
And defended for centuries by the naval forces.
The enemy saw the approaching fleet.
With menacingly flapping sails, they charged the opponent.
With cannons on board.
And sabres and muskets in hand.
Always first in battle: the naval soldiers.
Marines, seafaring fighters.
Today, the naval soldiers fight for the favour of the people.
The civilians.
Where did you come from?
Doorn.
What's in Doorn? - The marines.
Marines aren't civilians themselves. There are only 3000 of them.
They tend to stay in their holes, and in society they are often invisible.
But they cost society a lot of money...
...so sometimes they have to show their camouflaged faces.
And show what they can do, why they are useful...
...and how nice their gear is.
Plus they need to discover new members of their own species.
May I ask you something?
Aren't you a bit young to be a soldier?
Well, yes. But I'm here every year.
Every year? And where did you get this nice uniform?
I bought it somewhere.
Do you want to join the army? - Yes, the marines.
You want to join the marines? - That's my dream.
They all look alike to me, so green.
Yes, but the difference is that the navy wears black and gold stripes...
...and the marines wear these: black and green.
How do you know all this?
Because I've been coming here since I was five.
How old are you? - 11, so I've been coming here...
For six years. - Yes.
It's my dream to be a part of this.
Isn't it very dangerous? - Yes, but if you die...
...at least they'll bring you back to the Netherlands.
Nice, so you're dead, but they'll take you home.
It's just that they're all people who want to take care of you.
They're there for each other? You like that?
That they help each other?
The marines are there for you, whether you have friends or not.
So with the marines, you always have friends?
With the marines, you always have friends.
You won't be lost in the crowd, all alone.
Is it the fighting spirit that bonds?
Or a love for exotic locations?
Is it about the nice uniforms?
Or is it about being a real man among real men?
How do you recognise a marine?
You would think he's blue.
Because he's with the navy.
They look like soldiers. - Correct, these are naval soldiers.
Why do they wear green at sea?
Because they will land afterwards, hence the green uniforms.
And they're all boys? - All boys.
So what's that girl doing there? - Support.
The Marine Corps is only for tough men.
Is it possible to talk to these dangerous men?
Yes, go ahead. - Do they speak in full sentences?
Usually they do, yes.
May I ask you something? What group are you with?
We're the 1st Boat Company, from Texel.
The Marine Corps. From Texel? - That's right.
Texel is over there? - That way.
The Marine Corps base, the barracks, is quite inconspicuous.
As you sail by, it almost seems invisible in its inconspicuousness.
Maybe they like it that way.
It seems camouflaged, or disguised as some kind of motel.
A conference centre next to the motorway...
...where guests are escorted to in a playful manner.
It's surrounded by fences.
If Joost Dourlein hadn't shown great courage...
...during the Police Actions in Indonesia in the late 1940s...
...there wouldn't be a barracks named after him.
How may I help you? - Good day, I'm Michael Schaap.
I'll be right there.
Juliet 1.
Correct, Juliet 1.
Please follow me for the paperwork. - Thank you.
Dourlein always led his men, even in great danger.
This is the habitat of the amphibious unit of naval soldiers.
The base is their own space...
...fully equipped for the marines' needs and duties.
Outside the fences live the people. Also known as the civil society.
On evenings and weekends, Commander Nommensen...
...lives in IJburg, Amsterdam. - Commander.
Two years ago, he took charge of the barracks on the island of Texel.
Your name is Nommensen? - Yes.
What can you say about the kind of people...
I'll be walking around, so is there anything I shouldn't do?
To answer your first question: You'll meet people of the fleet.
He's very alert. The man with the bow tie asks multiple questions.
All questions are categorised and answered one by one.
So those are the various kinds of people you'll meet here.
And the marines, of course. - Question two: etiquette.
You'll see that if you ask questions, people will often answer in jargon.
So if it isn't clear to you, you should ask further questions.
So you will get the answers to your questions.
I ask this, because there's a certain image of marines...
...of being real ironsides, conservative men.
I get this image from the protests at Dam Square...
...when they cleared the square in the 1970s.
That's my last memory of the Marine Corps.
That's a shame. - Yes, isn't it?
It's a no-nonsense welcome.
You're a guest in our barracks, most welcome.
And many English terms are used.
In the desert we wear desert colours.
Marines are characterised by their can-do mentality.
Can-do mentality? - Yes.
This community isn't known for being accessible.
They don't like people snooping around.
Those outsiders, who only want to see them shoot and fight.
But if you do visit, it's best to do so on a Wednesday.
Then there's the famous Wednesday supper: the Blue Meal.
In almost every culture, supper is a social event.
But you can't just sit down and join a group of marines.
It's not easy to gain their trust.
The commander doesn't eat alone. He joins his men.
The most relaxed member of a group is often an old greybeard.
He has seen enough strangers to not be uncomfortable anymore.
I notice that people look at me a bit strangely.
Do civilians ever come here?
Yes, but not as often as before.
Because we don't want to be swamped by school trips.
So we're a bit selective about whom we allow to visit us.
Prawn cracker? - No, thanks.
You like the food? - Yes.
The marines are famous for this: the Blue Meal.
The Blue Meal? - Yes.
Because the Indonesians were the Blues? Why so?
I think it dates back to the old days...
...when there were quite a lot of Indonesian people in the navy.
For example, after this meal we'll drink a cup of 'purut'...
...which is chocolate milk.
And after an amphibious exercise, the boys take a 'mandi'...
...which is a shower. There are more words like these.
In the jargon, the marines are clearly different from the navy.
We sometimes call our fleet colleagues 'fleet bales'.
And they call us 'beetles'.
And is there a word for civilians?
Yes, there is.
They're called 'worcivs'.
You want to know what it is, right? It's 'worthless civilians'.
But that's a joke, of course.
'Qua patet orbis': As far as the world extends.
The motto of the marines.
Only a quarter of the residents is not a marine.
And marine or no marine, beards are rare around here.
That's true. When I was a boy, my father gave me a sailboat.
All those who want to sail as freebooters must be bearded men.
John, Pete, George and Karel Budde.
It doesn't look very military, but it's the foundation.
Sailing is a good foundation, I think.
The Marine Corps was founded by naval hero Michiel de Ruyter.
Soon after, their first major achievement...
...was the raid on Chatham in 1667.
The English fleet was decimated.
They became the navy's flagship overnight, the cream of the crop...
...as they still say.
I have to release the other side.
Do you know what wind force it is? - I think it's wind force 4 or 5.
So we're not going to unfurl everything.
Captain Budde, a real skipper, became a marine when he was 16.
So I arrived in Hollandsche Rading...
...with about 120 boys and girls.
They put us through the wringer for a week.
More and more people dropped out...
...and at the end of the week, there were six of us left.
Four of these six could choose: the Corps or the navy.
Two could only join the navy.
I was one of the four who could start serving in the Marine Corps.
Mr Budde, can you take the helm? - Of course.
What makes a marine a marine? What do you need?
The right mindset. - What's that?
Good character, determination, flexibility.
And we stick together through thick and thin.
The people on the navy ships do great work, of course...
...but they still have a certain degree of comfort.
But the marines are often in the bush, in the snow.
Do you have to be tough? - No, I don't think so.
I can imagine that a young man...
...on a nice FRISC like that one will feel pretty cool.
But on average I don't think we're tough.
So they're not tough, and they're never late either.
That's for civilians.
The language is a bit mechanical.
Sorry I'm late. - That's normal for civilians.
Everything has to be loud and clear. Plain language.
He'll come along to Kornwerderzand. Let's go.
The youngest group members, the freshmen...
...still have to be moulded by the moulders.
30 seconds left.
Sergeant Herman knows how to do this. His voice is his weapon.
Short, well-aimed explanations and orders.
You still have time to look around.
With sergeant Herman you won't be a wimp.
Can you say something about...
This is the IJsselmeer.
When you land, these boys will have to fight as well, right?
Of course, it's not just about sailing from A to B.
These are the men who fight on the water.
We're not the men who only sail from A to B, like the navy.
Man overboard, starboard.
Not in the water, but on the line. A bit lower.
A little bit. Stop, a bit higher.
Yes. Stop, that's too far. A bit lower.
Now read the meter.
Guide him there. Tell him when to stop.
What do you think of the speed?
Tell him then.
What do we do with this man?
What do we do with him? - Give first aid.
What else? - Warm him, bring him in.
Say it then.
What did we say about the key? - You have to put it back.
Why was it in your pocket? - It was faster.
No, that's not the drill.
Lock the door.
What else is on your belt? Why didn't you go to the edge?
Is it firmly attached? - No.
Wrap it up. Continue the navigation.
After eight weeks of training, a mother will see...
...her son starting to vacuum of his own accord.
He's a go-getter now.
We're still connected. Disconnect.
Bakker, guide him.
What is this here?
Grab it here.
In a lock, you moor as quickly as possible.
After the exercise it's on to Medemblik. The night is spent in a unique barracks.
The host yells: Too late.
He doesn't blame the bow-tied latecomer, but the crew.
Goddamn it. Hey, Jeroen.
We'll have frikandels today. No croquettes, no bullshit.
This is a branch of the Joost Dourlein barracks.
It looks like a bar, but it's a barracks.
The host doesn't wear a uniform, but his brothers recognise him.
I'm a marine veteran. That's why we're here together.
Hundreds of marines have been here since 1981.
Even a model marine like Erik Jan den Boer.
I'm glad you're here. Dig in.
He had been a marine for 18 months...
...back when there was still a draft.
He's a marine veteran. It's forbidden to say 'ex-marine'.
Every year his people stop by. He welcomes them, and feels free.
As if he can be himself again.
Eggs for everyone.
Eggs, here you go.
I'm always invited to farewell or opening ceremonies on Texel.
Then I feel I'm one of the few people who is part of that.
It's an incredible feeling. We're all buddies, it's fantastic.
I miss this a bit in civil society.
It's very individualistic, without the camaraderie that the Corps has.
The Corps as a whole can always be complimented...
...but a marine never compliments himself.
That's done in a different way, through promotion.
The commander turns Sergeant Herman into a sergeant major.
As first skipper, you'll be promoted to sergeant major...
...if there are no objections. Congratulations.
It gives pride, but there's no need to dwell on it.
It's great, but we have to get going. So we should be downstairs by 8.15.
Great, congratulations.
They do make time to pay respects to a marine killed in action...
...or in an accident during an exercise.
Marine Ryan Bakker has lost his life.
I would like to honour him with a minute of silence.
The young man who has died was 21 years old.
He had a sweetheart, two parents and a brother.
He had made his dream come true: becoming a marine.
After the accident he was brought home.
Ryan would have understood that a marine has to move on.
Okay, guys. It's sad, but we have to get going.
Downstairs in 5 minutes.
Yes, guys. This is great.
You know what else is nice? This thing right here.
It's from Cambodia.
The marines once sent this to me. It's for mines.
Those guys are here now. Erik Jan den Boer, awesome.
The guys are back, it's fantastic.
Erik den Boer, model marine.
Not because he's been on many missions or hit many enemies...
...but because he's a brother through and through.
Never a career soldier...
...but someone who sticks around. On Texel, with his men.
This is a training area, right? - Yes.
And a nature reserve.
We have a great view from here.
Are you okay, or do you need oxygen?
I once heard a general talk about a willingness to be killed.
I think I do want to give my life for my country.
I want to die for the good cause.
That's what I signed up for, so they can count on me.
You're willing to die for me? - If that's asked of me.
Would you do it for me?
I hope so. I can only hope.
I think it's only human to take care of yourself.
But I think we have an extra gene...
...that makes us stand up for each other and help each other.
We leave no man behind, no matter what.
Erik den Boer also speaks highly of the Corps' brotherly solidarity.
It almost sounds like a religious calling.
How do you overcome fear? - I take it in my stride.
I hold on to the force of the Marine Corps.
I hold on to the solidarity that we have as a group...
...and the pride of wearing the beret. I worked hard for it...
...so that's what I emanate, and this keeps me going.
Pride? - Yes, pride.
Are there things you're not so proud of?
Yes, when you're away from home for a while.
Life goes on in the Netherlands while you're in Somalia for five months.
Sometimes you wonder what's it all for.
When you read the papers, and the results are minimal.
But the effect of our presence there is now beginning to show.
You can get petrol in the Netherlands because we are there.
This keeps things calm, and there are fewer hijackings.
Civil society doesn't like pirates, so the marines are sent to fight them.
The group members get together before saying goodbye.
Two boat companies. One will go to Africa...
...the other will stay on Texel.
They'll be separated for more than six months.
And any questions should be asked ASAP.
Those who'll board the Rotterdam at 10 should report to my deck.
Any issues? Let me know ASAP.
Questions? No? I'll have a Fanta then.
White shoes? You can cross those out. I still have two unused pairs.
They're part of the package.
What's your shoe size? - 43, 270 M.
9.5 UK, 10.5 US... - That's too much information.
...and 585 Japanese.
The mother ship has the purpose...
...of taking the marines to where they can be of service.
The life of a marine consists largely of travelling.
And waiting.
The Corps has already served in Iraq, Cambodia, Haiti...
...Bosnia, Liberia and Afghanistan.
And now in Tanzania, close to Somalia.
Founded to protect merchant shipping...
...almost 350 years later, the marines still do this.
The marines are part of the fleet, but not really.
The fleet transports and accommodates them.
The marines eat with the others, but have their own sleeping quarters.
On board you want to sleep on the port side, due to clogged drains.
It never happens that someone...
Attention, portside sewage is unavailable.
What did he say? Portside... - Sewage.
The toilets on the port side. - They're clogged?
It's a common problem? - Yes, that's why I don't sleep there.
Really? It happens a lot on the port side?
The outsider is tolerated. The door is left ajar.
Good morning.
In exchange for as little dialogue as possible. Preferably none.
The berth is one's own, and it is sacred.
Not as sacred as the team spirit, but still.
The personality isn't shown to the outsider.
So one has to search for it among the belongings.
A thriller about mean Somalian pirates...
...windows to the home front...
...Christmas decorations.
Marco talks about his daddy every day.
Daddy is on the Rotterdam in Somalia, catching bad pirates.
And then he puts them in the cage.
Biceps competition.
Food for the muscles.
You don't want to run out on such a long trip.
The ship can smell like oil, sweat and freshly baked bread.
Good morning, it smells good in here. You always bake your own bread?
Yes, every day.
You're a baker by profession? - Yes, in the navy.
How did you start? - Excuse me?
First I was in school, of course.
Then I joined the navy, first as a cook.
Later I became a steward, and then I retrained as a baker.
And you also go to the gym? - Yes, I enjoy it. Absolutely.
So it's not from kneading dough? - Actually it is, but I'm acting tough.
And what do you bake?
We bake a hundred loaves of brown bread every day.
Excuse me? - A hundred loaves of brown bread.
And about thirty baguettes.
Every day we bake something to serve with coffee, like cookies.
For birthdays and celebrations we always bake a personal cake.
Plus 30 loaves of white, and specialty breads.
Do the marines have different preferences, different...
Consumption? Yes, they consume much more brown bread.
Really? - They're athletes, so it's popular.
And when we add nuts too, it's gone in no time.
Funny. - Absolutely.
So the marines eat more... - They love healthy bread.
Do you know the Marine Corps? - Yes.
Do they have special preferences? - As long as it's a lot.
Why is that?
They just consume huge amounts, because they're gone a lot...
...and they provide a lot of intensive labour.
For instance, they don't eat two or three slices of bread, but half a loaf.
Per person? - Yes, so that's a lot.
On a sunny morning, the mother ship leaves Dar es Salaam...
...the port of Tanzania.
Inside the ship it's freezing, but outside it's hot: 40 degrees Celsius.
When the marines reach their location, they can depart.
The mother ship opens her belly.
With their equipment, they leave the windowless mother ship...
...which offers no glimpse, neither outward nor in.
The marines really want to do something...
...but the mandates are often weak. Civil society likes to hesitate.
Out of the enemy's sight, they set up their base...
...in the shape of a floating island.
Now they're even more together than on the big ship.
Their own domain.
Are they thinking about Stanley?
He's the imaginary womaniser who visits their love...
...when they're far away from home.
They don't like to talk and reflect. At least not with an intruder.
And definitely not when it gets too personal.
The marines don't easily bare their souls.
But they do open their duffle bags. - It's not a big secret.
Sergeant Bergsma's duffle bag, for instance.
What did you bring? - A warm top, a Gore-Tex jacket...
...and a brush of my own, for weapon maintenance.
I have a whistle. For emergencies, it's standard.
And a small drinking cup.
This is your personal handgun? - Yes.
It's a chemical reaction.
It glows for at least eight hours. It depends on the colour though.
So this is the base now, here at sea?
Yes, this is our headquarters, that's right.
Finally a chance to dine together. Pancakes.
But the strong arms remain folded, defensively.
But can you be yourself in a close-knit team like this?
Is it okay to be weird?
We're all a bit weird. That's why we do this.
We all have different interests, like music or other things.
Some of us are very special.
But you don't really boast about what you do at home.
You sometimes talk about it, but you don't try to stand out.
So what kind of things should you avoid?
What doesn't fit in here? I'm talking about deviant behaviour.
If you deceive your buddies, that's a big mistake.
So screwing your buddies over? - Yes.
Are you in a relationship? - Yes, wife and kids.
Isn't she terrified sometimes? - Some wives maybe, but not mine.
And your children?
One of my children turned four yesterday.
Congratulations. - Thank you.
For kids that age it's hard.
Today is Monday, so it's the first day of school.
And I miss all that.
The youngest one just turned one and can walk and talk now.
I missed all that as well.
While I'm away, my baby has grown into a toddler.
These are the things I regret.
What if your child starts saying: Dad, please don't go.
Would you consider not going on a mission?
No.
Children might ask such things, but my wife knows not to do that.
They do miss their families, but their colleagues are family too.
And not the clichéd surrogate or symbolic family.
They're really trained to see their colleagues as their own blood.
That's why there's such a big taboo on deceiving your buddies.
They make fun of each other and give each other nicknames.
But you don't screw your teammates.
It's your own blood, and a marine doesn't cut his own flesh.
The secret behind this is the 'esprit de corps'...
...perhaps the only transcendental and elusive concept of this group.
Esprit de corps. It's invisible, yet omnipresent.
Don't get too nosy now.
Let's have a look.
No one can easily put it in words...
...but a true marine has heard the sacred voice of the esprit de corps.
And its word is in the manual.
This is a copy of... Let's go over there.
A copy of our bible, you mean? Because that's what it is.
Major Richard Peper-de Goede is a co-author of the new edition.
But my copy is from 1958.
The Marine's Manual.
I'll read you a bit. The esprit de corps.
The marine who thinks he should tell everyone...
...that the food at the Corps is awful...
...lies, and lacks esprit de corps. - Correct.
The marine who thinks it is bold to curse and offend civilians...
...is not only a bad soldier, but he also lacks esprit de corps.
It's almost a prayer. - It's a bible.
How do you deal with obstinate types? There are always rebels.
Guys who say: Yes, but... Yes, but what if I do this?
There are very simple tricks for that, which work for a reason.
For obstinate types, but I've also had moments...
...that I didn't feel like doing something, that I refused.
You won't be punished, but the group around you will.
That's the trick.
They get an assignment, and you have to watch them do it.
So the entire group is punished, while the culprit has to watch?
Yes, that's a method.
So you won't do it again?
Yes, you quickly learn not to do that.
The marine who actually prefers another part of the armed forces...
...and thus does not try his best to be better, stronger, more correct...
...and more rigid than any member of this other part...
...lacks backbone and esprit de corps.
That's correct.
Yes, but I... - The only answer is: It's correct.
But isn't it true that it's also a bit...
You can keep trying, but it's simply correct. The determination...
...and the will to do and be the best...
...is always the same, whether it's 1958 or 2000.
But whom are you doing this for?
For each other. Maybe also for yourself, but mostly for each other.
We don't really think about our country or our boss.
Mostly about each other.
More than king and country and the desire for adventure...
...it's the Corps itself that unites.
The team spirit is so well-formed...
...that the community seems an end in itself, not a means.
Why do you do it? For each other.
That's a FRISC? - Warrant officer Erik den Boer...
...is esprit de corps incarnate.
Let's see how this goes.
First my knee.
Grab my hand.
Thank you.
Do you feel the civilians outside understand what you do?
And respect it enough?
I'm glad you ask that question, because I sometimes feel...
...that the respect is waning a bit.
Maybe we partly owe this to ourselves...
...because we're not so good at promoting ourselves.
We like to keep a low profile.
But knowing that there are still people around...
...who'll give their lives for all that we've built over here...
...that there's a club, a unit, that guarantees this...
...that's a nice thing to know, I think.
In this time of cutbacks, when people doubt if they should stay...
...it's good to hear when people tell me: Officer, I'm staying.
I'm staying with you.
At the end of the year, there's a speech for those who stayed home.
Gentlemen, welcome.
We're all here for the closing of the year.
It's about next year, and as always, the budget will be cut.
Civil society deems the naval forces expensive.
Especially the left part, the portside people.
Why all these costs in peacetime?
But stay here, stay where you are now.
The marine of today suffers from austerity.
This causes new jargon to enter the marines' language.
Words like organisational restructuring.
An important step has been taken in reorganising...
A preliminary reorganisation plan...
Now that the barracks have agreed on the reorganisation plan...
We'll start the implementation phase of the reorganisation...
Commander Nommensen is forced to be the voice of bureaucracy.
We will face these changes united and committed.
It's not in the marines' nature to publicly create a fuss...
...and raise their voice.
Because they have to be the invisibles.
Invisible to the enemy, invisible to civil society.
And often invisible to the family.
Not easy to find on the societal radar.
What do they do after nightfall, when it gets dark?
Along dangerous coasts, far away from here.
Heroic deeds? If it is heroism, it is invisible.
And maybe they like it that way.
The Corps knows its own strength. It doesn't need to share this.
And it doesn't need society to be grateful.
The marines appreciate each other.
For demonstrated courage in public, for instance.
Corporals Boomsma and Willems performed CPR.
Zijlstra called an ambulance.
And for 35 years of loyal service, fatherly advice and beardedness.
The man with the beard, who has been here for 35 years.
Thank you. - You're welcome.
And for steadfast command...
...during an invasion of organisation plan implementations.
You're surrounded by your men, who idolise you.
There's warmth and affection in this community as well.
It's wrapped in humour and sportsmanship...
...but it's not invisible.
We noticed that our commander, who's really there for us...
...at some point reached his limit.
I see this, for I'm the thermometer of the crew...
...but also of the commander, and not in the way you think.
She said: Give him a bear hug. I won't do it myself...
...but this is from our hearts. Once again, congratulations.
So that little boy was right after all.
A nine-year-old boy, who wanted to join the marines and said:
The main reason is that you make friends there...
...and if you die, they will take you home and look after you.
We'll always take you home.
Here we go.
Let's see.
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