Welcome to Probikeshop TV! Today, I'm going to show you how to adjust your position on a road bike.
For this task you will need a spirit level, 4 mm and 5 mm Allen keys,
a plumb line, a tape measure, a pen, a calculator,
a torque wrench complete with a set of bits and some cardboard.
The first step is to take some measurements.
Wearing a pair of socks, stand with your heels against the wall with a 20 cm gap between your feet.
Place either a folder or a ring binder under your perineum before proceeding
to measure your inside leg: 84 cm.
Once you've take the measurement, multiply the figure by 0.885
to obtain the optimum measurement for the distance between the bottom bracket spindle and the top of the saddle.
My desired measurement is 74 cm so I'm going to adjust the gap between the bottom bracket spindle and the top of the saddle accordingly, up to the dip on certain saddle models.
Now that I've adjusted the saddle height, use an Allen key to set that adjustment in place.
Tighten using a torque wrench to the torque recommended by the manufacturer.
Once the saddle is at the correct height, it's time to make sure that your saddle is level.
Place your bike on a level floor with the tyres inflated.
Use the spirit level to ensure that your saddle is in the correct position.
Adjust your saddle accordingly and then lock it in place using an Allen key.
Once you've done that, it's time to determine whether you should move your saddle forwards or backwards. Use a plumb line for this task.
For visibility's sake I've put the bike on a home trainer but the best way is to put the bike on the floor and ask a friend to hold the handlebars for you.
To ascertain whether you should move your saddle forwards or backwards, put the cranks in the horizontal position.
Hold the plumb line so that it runs down over your knee.
The line should be perfectly aligned with the pedal axle.
Given that we've already determined the correct position for the seat post,
if the alignment is not right then you'll have to move the saddle either forwards or backwards until the plumb line is aligned with the pedal axle.
It's now time to lock in the adjustment using the torque wrench. Make sure that you keep the saddle level
and tighten to the torque recommended by the manufacturer of the seat post and the saddle so as not to damage the screws or any carbon components.
Once that adjustment has been made, you can now concentrate on your position on the bike.
A tip: this bike has integrated handlebars so I can't adjust the angle of my bars
but one way of checking that your stem is correctly adjusted is to see whether you can lightly touch your knee with your elbow.
Last but not least, let's adjust the brake hoods.
The first step is to test your position by placing your hand on the brake hood.
I'll give you a few textbook measurements to help you perform this adjustment.
Once you've adjusted the position of your handlebars,
here's how you should adjust the position of your brake hoods: this bike has ergo power brake hoods which come up further than normal
but with more traditional brake hoods you can place a spirit level on the top of the brake hood
and adjust to between 10 and 20 mm, which is the textbook measurement.
Feel free to further adjust the position depending on your morphology.
Your bike has now been adjusted and you can use a few of my tips to ensure that your bike is correctly adjusted.
However, if you're looking for an optimal setup, nothing beats a professional bike-fitting.
See you again soon on Probikeshop TV!
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